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Well everyone knows that anyone can take a screwdriver, pry open the top of the driver side window a little bit and use anything long and stiff (coat hanger, stick, whatever) to flip up the power door lock switch to gain easy access to your car... I've heard of may people removing the switch for this specific reason. But a simple SPDT 12V relay wired to your alarm will provide you with that security & w/o the hassel of using the manual locks. I'll define the wiring w/ the pins of a standard SPDT automotive realy.. But I acctually used a small 12V SPDT computer relay because the amount of current through the switch is nowhere near 20/30amps, the smalled magnet will use less power, and it's smaller so it's easier to stash in drivers kick panel.. Now once your alarm is armed you can not unlock the door by the power unlock switch although you can still lock them.. When the alarm is off you can lock and unlock the door w/ the switch like normal. I'm sure it's been done before, But if you haven't thought of it, maybe you should. Edit: Oh and it's a good idea to put the relay after(door side of) the connection to the green/orange wire for your alarms power unlock wire(which makes this connection car side). Depending on the alarm there might be a delay that will cause your doors not to unlock the first time you disarm it if the relay is connected car side of the alarms unlock wire. Another Edit: The Green/ Orange wire in the drivers kick panel (plastic panel next to the foot rest left of the clutch pedal) is a Green wire with Orange dots on it. Which is going into the White Box.. The Orange dots can be pretty far apart to you might have to trim back some of the loom insulation to see if it has orange dots or another color. Instructions to test the wire are below. |
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Thank you, I've been meaning to do this, but your diagram makes it 10x easier. It's been so hard just leaving it disconnected, and then when passengers want to get out, they pull at the door handle and stare blankly waiting for the door to unlock. Then I reach over and unlock the door for them. This will make my life so much easier. Thanks again. |
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you may wanna tell people how to test the wire, don't want them going to cut any ol green/orange wire in the kick |
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Well it's the only green wire with orange dots on it in the drivers kick panel.. And I figured if you didn't know how to test a wire already you probally should even be attempting to hook anything up to your car alarm.. But I guess this could be a good beginner project for someone so... To test the wire... 1. Connect the positve post of your Digital Multimeter (DMM) or Test Light (not reccomended) to any constant +12V.. 2. Strip a small section the green/orange wire you suspect to be the power unlock wire... 3. Connect the negative post of your DMM to the small stripped section of the green/orange wire.. 4. Set your DMM to check voltage 5. Press the power lock switch up unlocking the doors.. 6. When the doors unlock your DMM should flash +12V... It happens pretty quick so you really have to watch for it. If the DMM doesn't flintch when you unlock the doors you got the wrong wire..tape up the one you stripped and try again.. Testing the alarms ground when armed output is the same procedure only instead of locking the doors you arm the alarm..the +12V readout won't flash and should stay constant while the alarm is armed and read 0v when the alarm is disarmed... to find the ground when armed output wire you must first know the location of the alarm brain.. then you must reffer to the alarm's manual to determine which wire is the "ground when armed output " wire. If using a test light the light should flash..or stay on instead of a +12V readout. |
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Nice ..*thumbs up* |
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Quote: |
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normally done with continuity instead of 12v/negative |
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Haha acctually, I do it w/ continuity, but I thuought that was supposed to be bad practice because it uses a small charge from the meter which could damage sensitive devices Anyways I mostly expalined by 12V / Neg because it works for a meter or a test light. [kill 2 birds w/ one stone ] |
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oh sheit, i guess that would be bad lol never thought of that :/ |
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yeah me and tony have been toying with doing this for the longest time, now we can actually do it haha -kenny |
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cool!!!!!!!!!! |
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Quote: Kenny, lets all work on this together |
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how about i just cut the wires and leave them so the switch doesn't work |
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Having a hard time finding the Alarm wire that I need to tap into, I've tapped into two wires both not the correct ones. I have a Clifford Intelliguard 7000. Thanks. |
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I just did this in my car but a little differently. I interrupted the unlock wire inside the door panel, at the switch, and used the ignition to control the unlock. Its a cleaner install and for the inexperienced there's no way of accidentally frying anything. There are only 3 wires at the switch, the center is (-) ground and either side is lock/unlock (I forget the exact order) so all you need to do is use a test light (connected to ground) in each side and find which is unlock. As for wiring the relay: 85: (+) from ignition controlled wire at window switch 86 + 30: switch side of unlock wire 87: relay side of unlock wire Your keyless entry will still work and the switch will function normally when the ignition is on. |
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w0w, nice post |
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Thanks for the info, good read! |
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Also, if you are hooking the relay as shown in that diagram to a true "armed output", you'll have a dead battery at the end of the weekend. Another easy way to make the circuit would be to put terminal 85 to the siren output if it's positive (most are), and 86 to the armed output. This way, voltage is only applied when the output is active and the siren is. Make sure you put the unlock wire from the alarm to the module side of the relay so it will still unlock the doors if you disarm the alarm. Ryan |
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Originally Posted By: RyanA Also, if you are hooking the relay as shown in that diagram to a true "armed output", you'll have a dead battery at the end of the weekend. Another easy way to make the circuit would be to put terminal 85 to the siren output if it's positive (most are), and 86 to the armed output. This way, voltage is only applied when the output is active and the siren is. Make sure you put the unlock wire from the alarm to the module side of the relay so it will still unlock the doors if you disarm the alarm. Ryan 1 small computer relay will not kill your battery over a weekend. The starter kill relay that ships with most all alarms uses more power and doesn't kill your battery. Anyways hooking it up like that would be pointless. The siren isn't active when they unlock your doors. When they open the door that's when the alarm goes off & the siren becomes active. |
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Originally Posted By: Neo Noodle Originally Posted By: RyanA Also, if you are hooking the relay as shown in that diagram to a true "armed output", you'll have a dead battery at the end of the weekend. Another easy way to make the circuit would be to put terminal 85 to the siren output if it's positive (most are), and 86 to the armed output. This way, voltage is only applied when the output is active and the siren is. Make sure you put the unlock wire from the alarm to the module side of the relay so it will still unlock the doors if you disarm the alarm. Ryan 1 small computer relay will not kill your battery over a weekend. The starter kill relay that ships with most all alarms uses more power and doesn't kill your battery. Anyways hooking it up like that would be pointless. The siren isn't active when they unlock your doors. When they open the door that's when the alarm goes off & the siren becomes active. Well, a starter kill relay does not energize until the key is turned. The power that runs the relay is the power from the switch that goes to the starter wire. When the alarm arms, the ground goes to one side of the relay coil. The other side goes to the switch side of the starter wire. That wire ONLY has power when you turn the key to the start position. That is why your battery does not go dead. And yes, a relay that is energized 24 hours a day from Friday to Monday morning will make your battery go dead. How do I know this? I was a member of Code Alarm's R&D team in the early to mid 90's. I helped with design of some new circuitry in their alarms. I guess the TRUE fail safe would be to put a switch that just interrupts your unlock part of the switch. Just use the alarm to do the unlock. Bottom line is this: If they want in the car, they'll get in there. A typical thief doesn't really care how they get in your car. Heck, why do you think the parking light output is fused now? On older alarms, you could simply break out a parking light, put a screwdriver in there to short it then set off the alarm. When the lights would go to flash, the main fuse would blow.... I guess one "failsafe" way would be to do it like this: 1. Buy a pulse timer and set it to 5 minutes or so. That way, you can operate the door unlock until about 5 minutes after you turn the car off. It shuts off after 5 minutes and there is no longer any current draw. The pulse timer would be set up to trigger when the key is turned off; that would keep the door unlock button working for that amount of time. On the internal relay, 87 would go to constant 12 volts, 30 would go to 85 on a relay. Also, 85 on the same relay would go to switched ignition. YOu would need to diode isolate these so the pulse timer would not backfeed the ignition source. 86 would go to ground on the external relay. 30 would go to switch side of unlock wire and 87 would go to the body harness side of the door unlock wire. Now, here's where you get to be a dick. Put 87a on the external relay to one of the grounding alarm trigger wires (hood switch, trunk switch, negative door trigger, etc). This way, when the little pricks try to unlock your doors, they are actually setting the alarm off. Nice and fun... |
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Actually I was just trying to avoid doing the math.. But I guess you forced me.. Here's the breakdown... Relay Specs: 12V Mini Computer Relay from Radio Shack Coil Resistance: 400ohms Operating Voltage: 12V Operating Power consumption: 0.36W Current: 0.03A A typical small size car battery is rated @ 30-40Ah (Amp hours) Having the relay coil active for 36 hours (6pm Friday - 6am Monday) will use a total of 1.08Ah. In other words 3.6% of a 30Ah battery's capacity. That's the equivalent of leaving the (8W) dome light on for 1 hour & 37 minutes. That's also the equivalent of leaving your headlights (2 55W lowbeams, 2 25W corners, 4 8W tails) on for 4.05 minutes. |
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Oh and it's a good idea to put the relay after(door side of) the connection to the green/orange wire for your alarms power unlock wire(which makes this connection car side). Depending on the alarm there might be a delay that will cause your doors not to unlock the first time you disarm it if the relay is connected car side of the alarms unlock wire. |
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I had attempted to do this to my car in the past and wish I had this post back then. Needless to say I botched it and had to shell out $$$ to have it repaired. Live and learn. Nice tip. |