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A/C unit just crapped out. Furnace turns on and outside fan works but fan in furnace is not moving. I see a b1 error code on the control board and apparently it means blower communication error (it's a Goodman brand). It's only 6yrs old cuz the previous owner of the house had it installed in 2010. So it's under warranty Called the company that installed the unit and they said sorry since the previous owner didn't transfer the warranty you're fucked Anyone have a hookup to a repair guy? And if it comes down to the repair being more expensive than a new unit, anyone have a hookup for a new unit (Trane/Carrier)? Thanks. |
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goodman...ugh...crappy tire brand, sorry to hear. but yeah those things don't last for crap. repair SHOULD be cheaper than buying new. new AC units are pricey now since you're buying 15seer and up (will get $450 rebate or so) but trane will be the most costly, then carrier, then lennox/York. i don't with my guys anymore so can't do much for u sorry...but shop around to a couple of the main stores and see, they all undercut so eventually you'll end up to very similar pricing all-around. |
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Ok, so now the furnace/outside fan does not turn on like it did yesterday when I was trying to troubleshoot the A/C So I got a hold of a company that my father-in-law used when their unit needed to be replace, Nordicair. The guy said it's most likely the blower motor that needs to be replace @ $1700 but coud be the control board @ $500. He suggested if we didn't want to repair but replace they deal with Frigidaire (didn't know they made furnaces ) and it would be the fg7tc060d-24b model Anyone know about the reliability of Frigidaire? |
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Let me check my xls file on ac unit reliability |
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I'd only pick one of these, which are typically more expensive Trane Carrier / Bryant Pay now, or pay when it breaks. Had a Bryant unit for 19 years with no issues. replaced in 2013 with Carrier. |
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So we finally got someone to check out the furnace/ac and he said it was 90% the control board in the furnace that is the issue which would cost upwards of $700 to replace. He recommended to junk the Goodman and replace it with a Lennox (ML195) unit which is a single stage. He said 2-stage units are a nightmare to fix/diagnose but single stage are more simpler and less costly. Cost would be $2500 + tax + $400 for another humidifier (says our current one is too small and old). He would be able to install this tomorrow if we get back to him ASAP. Any thoughts about any of this? |
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Forget Lennox, service and warranty sucks and parts suck!!! My moms Lennox AC died after 4 yrs lol. |
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The repair guy told you that it makes more sense to spend $2900 than $700? There's a shocker. |
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Originally Posted By: ru4real The repair guy told you that it makes more sense to spend $2900 than $700? There's a shocker. I know I know but from everyone I've spoken to they say Goodman is horrible in reliability. The unit was installed a yr before we moved in. So the previous owner probably just got the cheapest one for the resale. |
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What humidifiers are you guys using on your furnaces? Thinking about installing an Aprilaire unit but not sure if other models/brands are better. |
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We have an Aprilaire. The winters are still dry enough where we still use in-room units for the kids' rooms. On another note, has anyone ever balanced their system? My top floor generally 2.5-3 degrees warmer in the upstairs rooms. Would like to get it a little closer in variance if possible cause to make the nights bearable, it's cold as hell downstairs in the morning. |
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Originally Posted By: SW20_MR2 We have an Aprilaire. The winters are still dry enough where we still use in-room units for the kids' rooms. Do you know what model you have? What's the square footage of your place roughly? |
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I think we have the 600 model. The house is 3300 sq ft not including the basement. |
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Originally Posted By: SW20_MR2 I think we have the 600 model. The house is 3300 sq ft not including the basement. Is your unit digital/automatic or manual? |
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Originally Posted By: SW20_MR2 We have an Aprilaire. The winters are still dry enough where we still use in-room units for the kids' rooms. On another note, has anyone ever balanced their system? My top floor generally 2.5-3 degrees warmer in the upstairs rooms. Would like to get it a little closer in variance if possible cause to make the nights bearable, it's cold as hell downstairs in the morning. Why not close most of the vents on the first floor to balance it out? |
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Some of them are entirely closed. Others that can't be closed entirely are set to the smallest setting. I might just put a book on top of the to see if it makes a difference. |
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Is your basement ceiling open? Near the furnace you should be able to trace the hvac runs to the first floor, they should have dampers. You can close them right there and you don't have to rely on the vents themselves (it's also a lot more effective) look for that bolted on handle thing on the round ducts to locate the dampers, parallel to the duct they are open, turn perpendicular to close the whole run. |
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Yep I can access them. What's the best approach? For example, keep all downstairs vents closed and adjust the damper by the furnace? Or open them up and adjust the damper. There are so many possible combinations so I wonder if there's a good methodology. |
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Too many variables to give you a straight answer, it will come down to trial and error and common sense |