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#4330129 - 12/11/09 02:54 PM Starting a new post, carnage pics - Bent rod oh my!
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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Ok, got the timing cover off so far. I have no idea WTF happened here but it looks like my lower timing cover may have cost me a head? The most telling picture is this one:



The lower cover and harmonic balancer are basically one piece right now. The balancer turns but it's ground into the cover quite far. I don't think that's normal?

I found chunks of plastic between the belt and idler pulley, oil pump gear, etc... Here are some chunks:






The bolt that holds the cover to the auto-tensioner is completely fucked:



However, it actually doesn't look like I had any leaks? The front case cover and just about everything else under the plastic is bone dry:



I do know that something is definitely wrong though - I have a 1/2" breaker bar on the crank pulley, no plugs in the head, and I cannot get the thing to crank clockwise past a certain point. I have two-hand leaned on the thing and it won't budge. I am going to try and leave it like I have it at the moment until a buddy can come over and maybe see things I'm not seeing. At first blush it looks like pieces of my lower cover have been rattling around in the t-belt area and finally snuck between the belt and the gears and it skipped timing. Problem is I can't get the damn motor turned past where I have it currently to verify the timing marks...

That's what I know so far.

Todd


Edited by ElectronVTEC2 (12/17/09 07:18 PM)
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#4330150 - 12/11/09 03:00 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
GB Offline
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Lol wow wtf.

Looks like a fun time!


Good luck man!
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#4330152 - 12/11/09 03:01 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
danl Offline
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Failed harmonic tensioner?

Also, carnage game. This cylinder went lean, at 38-40psi.


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#4330156 - 12/11/09 03:03 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: danl]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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The tensioner (I'm assuming that's the same as the harmonic balancer?) looks to be in decent shape but yea, it ate the fuck out of the lower cover. I'm already planning on replacing both of those pieces, for starters...

Todd
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#4330158 - 12/11/09 03:04 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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Almost forgot, carnage pics rule - nice piston, that a new aerodynamic mod?

Todd
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#4330173 - 12/11/09 03:09 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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Looks like you're right, Dan - the harmonic balancer. I separated it from the lower cover then separated it from itself and the rubber is shot to hell. Most of the rubber is missing or torn out...

Todd
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#4330194 - 12/11/09 03:15 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
danl Offline
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I've heard of that happening on older cars, so we all run a fluidampers.

Piston is not an aero mod jackass, its weight savings, geesh.

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#4330200 - 12/11/09 03:16 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: danl]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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Eh, I figured maybe it would help the piston glide through the oil squirt spray with less drag or something \:\)

I'm seeing Fluidampr as the replacement of choice, I just didn't want to spend $279 on a crank pulley at the moment, but I may have to.

Todd
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#4330206 - 12/11/09 03:18 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: danl]
danl Offline
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Oh, you probably only went 2 teeth off and took out 8 valves (either intake or exhaust). As long as the valve guides aren't bent or cracked too badly, I've slapped in new valves and called it a day. Check the rockers and possibly replace all the ones on the bent valves. Also check the cams for damage as well. The rockers usually crack with the force. Usually you can fix this for the cost of a headgasket. Most of the local DSM'ers have stock valves and rockers just laying around. If they are 1mm over, let me know, I have a set I can give you. They are junk for a racing application since I floated them pretty bad, but they will work in a DD.
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#4330228 - 12/11/09 03:23 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: danl]
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I have a used head on the way, complete with everything I need to drop in and go. Paid $125 for it on the link forums and they haven't let me down yet. I didn't figure I could get replacement parts and machine work done for that and this way I have a spare head to leave in the garage and take my time getting it healthy again. Going to a composite gasket, new water pump, gasket, o-ring, timing belt, and the two parts I've found so far (balancer and lower cover).

On the HG, I bought some copper spray but haven't used that on a HG before. Do I spray the block with copper spray and then put the HG in place and bolt the head down? Also, on the water pump, I've seen where I should put a thin layer of RTV on the pump gasket surface, place the gasket on the pump with a little weight and let it sit overnight. Then, a thin layer of RTV where the pump mounts up and bolt it all in place. Does that all sound correct?

Thanks for your help Dan, you have no idea how grateful I am for your advice.

Todd
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#4330402 - 12/11/09 03:58 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
danl Offline
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I do not use copper spray on headgaskets. Both my friend and I run stock composites and we put them on dry, that is how they are designed. We also reuise stock 6 bolt headbolts. Stock composite + stock headgasket goes 10's all day long if you don't detonate it. Just make sure the head and block are clean. You should have fresh iron and fresh aluminum. It can be 2-4 thou out with a composite, so don't worry too much, you don't push your hedgasket hard.

I use copper spray for the OEM water pump gaskets, front case gaskets, etc. Spray it on, let it get tacky, lay it on the water pump, and you can now slip the water pump on with gasket. Torque in sequence and its a low tq number, don't over do it. Overdoing it will warp your surfaces and you can get a leak. Vaseline on the water pump o-ring.

Pad the oil pan with an old rug when you have your jack under it so you don't dent it. You can now rock the engine up/down 8" or so to get better access to different components on the timing side of the engine. Also the timing belt kit from jayracing.com makes things nicer.

Good luck, the harmonic balancer failing has claimed others just like yourself.

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#4330680 - 12/11/09 05:32 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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Chuck, the "new" head should be in good enough shape to bolt on and go. I will give it the eyeball treatment when I get it but other than possibly putting new exh. manifold studs in, I'll most likely put it on like I got it. Cash is just a little tight right now with the holidays and since this is my winter car, I need it back to a running state yesterday \:\) I did do most of the maintenance items when we swapped in my 6 bolt last April though (front/rear main seals, etc...).

I also found a bigger issue than the crank balancer and is probably the reason I have bent intake valves (I eyeballed the rockers when I popped the VC last night, all the rockers were on. Funny thing is if you so much as breathe on the 1,2, and 4 intake rockers, they fall off). So, yea... Anyway, my timing belt tensioner pulley bolt was only finger tight. I thought something might be up when I saw the two eyelets pointing perpendicular to the ground instead of horizontal and above the bolt, but I went to untension the belt by undoing that bolt and was shocked when I could spin it out by hand. I found my timing belt tensioner rod tool so I'll do it the right way next time, but it really didn't matter at this point. When I put it all back together, does that bolt get thread locker on it? I didn't torque that bolt down last time but I know who did... hehe.

Todd
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#4330741 - 12/11/09 06:00 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
progressi Offline
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Todd,I wish I could give you advice,but with Dan here it's pointless-all I can do is nod. lol

But I can tell you this. Beat this car,wrench on it til' you get it right. Make this an accomplishment and come out of it stronger. These are awesome cars but they can and have tested the resolve of good mechanics. They're just getting too old and have seen too much abuse-both intentional and otherwise.

When I was new with my DSM there were days I was sick of it,but they became fewer and far between. It was tough because I had a 60 mile daily commute to make with it and I could never afford to be broken down. The commute was hilly,often in 100 degree heat with the AC running and Id be stuck in traffic often. Having said all that,the car never let me down-never broke down. It had issues at time,but most of them were just performance issues,not necessarily drivability. I blame most of those performance issues on the nasty CA gas,ask Dano about that.

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#4330955 - 12/11/09 08:13 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: progressi]
CommonGutterTrash Offline
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FWIW, I had an un-dampened UR pulley on my FWD for a long while.
you can pick them up cheap, and they ARE balanced, but not having the damper could do damage if you're high-revving.

finding a good aftermarket replacement damper isn't toooo hard.
I'm like 90% sure Dorman sells one. I think we sold them @ 1a.
here's one for a 7-bolt:
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/HarmonicBalancer/Mitsubishi/Eclipse/1AEHB00007/359622
I'm pretty sure they're interchangable.

no matter WHAT the seller says about the "new" head, bring it by a machine shop, and have them vacuum test it, at minimum.

I'm a fan of the evoIII/ralliart/MLS HG for the 4g63. they're pretty rugged, and if you happen to lift the head, you can re-torque it down, and you haven't blown any of the "paper" out, like an OE/composite would. if nothing else, the fact that they're 100% re-usable is pretty cool.

and, as dan said. spray-shit is only for cometics, and those suck, anyways.


lastly, don't EVER lean on a breaker bar to try and crank a motor.
if the valves were somehow NOT bent, they sure as fuck are, now.

Just cut the timing belt, and have a look. you'll be able to see damage on the toothed side if the belt pretty easily, if the belt skipped, and at this point, you're pulling the head, no matter what.
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#4330984 - 12/11/09 08:29 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: CommonGutterTrash]
danl Offline
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MLS headgaskets are great, when both surfaces are flat. Unfortuanatley with stock blocks or a block that hasn't seen machine work within a couple years and a used head, its not flat. You need to go with a compressible composite to guarantee a leak free seal. A MLS sometimes works, and sometimes it doesn't. Most people don't like spending hours lapping a block in the engine bay, so I just say go composite and skip the explanation. Plus, a composite holds 10's unless your tune is off. If it blows, it would've taken the pistons out on a MLS. Ask me how I know LOL.
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#4333932 - 12/13/09 08:42 AM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: danl]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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Ok, here are some real carnage pics:











Unfortunately my first attempt at weight reduction (removing two exhaust valves in cyl #2) was unsuccessful. In all seriousness, the #2 piston seems to be ok despite what happened on top of it...

Today I'm just taking everything off the old head, going to tap my IM while it's out of the car for a map sensor port, and taking the old water pump off. Then I'm just going to clean up the block as best I can...

Todd
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#4336349 - 12/14/09 03:01 AM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
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ouch
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#4347044 - 12/16/09 07:03 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: Relix]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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Little bit of an update. I dropped the pan and tried to "move" the crank and as far as my inexperienced ass can tell, there is no play side to side or in/out, at least not that I can create with my arms. Everything looks good in the pan, no flakes/glitter so my friend and I are going to pull out the rods, re-ring all of the pistons, hone/clean the block slightly, and put new bearings in. I looked at a few of the cylinder walls closely and you can still see crosshatch on them so I don't think we need much cleaning/honing.
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#4347395 - 12/16/09 08:53 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
Euphoricuck Offline
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ouch. lol my dsm is still ok. *knocks on wood*

selling it though
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#4348904 - 12/17/09 10:40 AM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: Euphoricuck]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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I just realized, I didn't post anything up about what I found the other day. I've had low compression in #3 for months (130 or so vs 150-ish in the other three) and now I know why. Well, I should say, I'll know for sure tonight when I pull that rod/piston out but it looks like I have a bent rod in #3. It doesn't come up to the same height as the rest of the assembly. So, the pistons are all coming out, the motor is getting a quick ball-hone treatment, and new rings/rod bearings are going in. Yay motor rebuild! I figure it's the time to do it since everything is already apart and the cost is miniscule so why the hell not... No new internals are going in (save for a replacement stock rod) as I do not have plans to take this car any further than it is right now power-wise.

Todd
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#4349833 - 12/17/09 02:11 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
danl Offline
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Don't use a ball hone, use the 3 stone hone, you can find them at sears for 25 bucks. The ball hone leaves a mess that is impossible to clean up, and it runs through the motor when you start it. The stone hone is easy to contain the mess. I usually take an old ring, drape a piece of cloth over it, and stuff it in the bottom of the cylinder where honing isn't really necessary as only the piston skirt sees this area. Also try to put ARP's in the rods. The stock rodbolts shouldn't be reused and if you do I wouldn't be reving it very high. If you have a bent rod the engine probably saw a misshift at some point in its life. All the rod bolts are suspect because of an overspeed.
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#4350019 - 12/17/09 02:50 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: danl]
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I have been told that if I were to go with ARP rod bolts that I'd need to get the big ends of the rods machined out to work correctly.
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#4350074 - 12/17/09 02:59 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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Oh yea, Dan, the consensus at this point on DSMLink is that a bent rod + two broken exhaust valves tells them the motor hydrolocked at some point. That's the theory at this point...

Todd
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#4350769 - 12/17/09 06:35 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
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you will need machining for ARP's.
also, don't pull the crank/main bearings unless you have to.
That's where 90% of "Rebuild" failures occur; between the main caps, the oil pump, and whatever else...
With a motor as square as the 4g, there's rarely a reason to to the mains, unless the motor was starved for oil for a "long time"
Just do the rings, and rod bearings.
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#4350806 - 12/17/09 06:53 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: CommonGutterTrash]
danl Offline
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Also on a 6 bolt the mains are extremely strong. The same goes for the rod bearings. On higher mileage engines (150+K miles) we will just throw shell rotella in them to make up for the bearing wear due to engine startups and crank the boost. My buddy's talon is a good example, runs 10's on the stock 1990 bottom end, oil pan has never been off and doesn't need to.

So don't pull the crank unless you have to. I would put ARP's and hone the rod big end however, else you just put together a timebomb with stock bolts.

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#4350851 - 12/17/09 07:13 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: danl]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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Bent Rod:






Bought a stone hone and some emery cloth at the 'Zone to clean up the cylinders/crank respectively. Am I assuming correctly that I can hit the crank journals with some brake cleaner to get the oil off, then run the emery cloth over them?

I want to get it back together this weekend (the bottom end, anyway) and I've searched ad nauseum and I've seen time after time that reusing the stock 6 bolt rod bolts is acceptable since they aren't TTY. I will not be revving this thing past 7500 RPM (even with cams on an E3 I can't see much power being made up there) and I think I'm going to stick with the E3 for quite awhile at this point.

Also - we are not and have not planned to touch the main caps/bearings at all. There is no play in the crank that I can tell so that all is staying put.

Yee haw.

Todd
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#4350874 - 12/17/09 07:32 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
danl Offline
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That rod is bad, real bad. Amazing it didn't snap actually. That thing definitely saw water.

Reuse the rod bolts then, I was always told this was a no no. I never touch cranks other than make sure they have acceptable clearance, and they always have. 1.5-2.5 thou (even 3 thou with thick oil) is acceptable for street usage on these engines. I don't touch them up with emery cloth. My friend did after he drove 20 miles on a 4g with no oil pressure (long story but he had to get to class and work). So just wrap the crank with rags and seran wrap or alumium foil as best you can. Then do the piston ring with a rag trick at the bottom of the cylinders. Tape off the coolant passages and oil feed in the block so you don't get stuff down there. I use WD40 as my lubricant and give each cylinder 60-80 seconds with the hone in a drill shooting for a 60 deg cross hatch pattern. I'd say 30 rpm in the drill moving it up and down in the bore as you go. When you are done wipe down the cylinder with brake cleaner or acetone until it comes off clean. It takes some work, but it should be clean when you wipe it. I then lubricate the bores and piston/ring assembly with motor oil and stuff it in the hole (well tap it) with a dead blow hammer and LIGHT taps in case a ring is hanging up. Bolt the rods down and throw a piece of plasticgauge on each rod journal to see if you are ok on your clearances, mostly to make sure you have the right size bearings, plasticgauge is NOT how you spec out a motor, mic and bore gauge is for specing clearances. Anyways torque her down, double check your torque, triple check. Rotate motor, make sure things seem right. Put the oil pickup back on with a new gasket. I use the copper spray here, works well. Throw the pan back up on after making sure surfaces are CLEAN with acetone. I use permatex orange high temp, works really well. Audi/VW makes some nice stuff as well. The rest you should know by now, unfortunately. \:\)

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#4350885 - 12/17/09 07:37 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: danl]
danl Offline
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Also, looks like the death was due to the possible hydrolock issue causing the bent rod and bent valves that finally cracked? The lower timing cover damage is most likely due to somebody not putting all the bolts in, and it rubbed on the crank pulley. Did your car actually jump time?
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#4350978 - 12/17/09 08:14 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: danl]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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Dan, thanks for all the info - I will print this out when we get to work on Sunday \:\)

It's really hard to tell if the car actually jumped time. I'm inclined to think it did due to the bent intake valves but anything could have happened when the two exhaust valves snapped off. But, since I couldn't possibly rotate the motor to TDC with two valves sitting in the CC, I wasn't able to accurately determine if it jumped time.

If the crank journals look good, I'll leave the emery cloth out of the picture.

I need to pick up some plastigauge.

I'll post up pics when we're all done.

Todd
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#4350986 - 12/17/09 08:18 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: progressi]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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 Originally Posted By: progressi
Todd,I wish I could give you advice,but with Dan here it's pointless-all I can do is nod. lol

But I can tell you this. Beat this car,wrench on it til' you get it right. Make this an accomplishment and come out of it stronger. These are awesome cars but they can and have tested the resolve of good mechanics. They're just getting too old and have seen too much abuse-both intentional and otherwise.

When I was new with my DSM there were days I was sick of it,but they became fewer and far between. It was tough because I had a 60 mile daily commute to make with it and I could never afford to be broken down. The commute was hilly,often in 100 degree heat with the AC running and Id be stuck in traffic often. Having said all that,the car never let me down-never broke down. It had issues at time,but most of them were just performance issues,not necessarily drivability. I blame most of those performance issues on the nasty CA gas,ask Dano about that.


Dude, I don't know how I missed this post before but it's a good one. Thanks for the encouragement!

Todd
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#4351026 - 12/17/09 08:35 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
danl Offline
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That motor really did a number on you. Bent rod, bent valves, broken off valve heads. I've never done that much damage to a motor. Damm........

EDIT:

Also told you compression tests are useless. I mean, so you saw a cyl was low. What are you going to do about it? Nothing. Its better just to not know. I will never do a compression test, last one was 4 years ago, never again. Eff that, when it lets smoke out or makes noise then I'll inspect it.

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#4351046 - 12/17/09 08:47 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: danl]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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Yea, I'd feel better if I was making a lot of power but I'm really not. The compression test definitely pointed out the problem but I agree, it's akin to knowing the year you're going to die or something. Ah well, I had intended to "do something about" the low compression this spring (replace the MLS, water pump, re-ring cyl #3), it apparently just wanted to go out on it's own time table.

Todd
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#4351320 - 12/17/09 10:31 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
Euphoricuck Offline
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wow talk about gettin your swerve on

ive never done that much damage either. goodluck with fixin it up.

i want to keep mine but really dont have room now and wont for a while. it sucks.
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#4358680 - 12/20/09 08:56 PM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: Euphoricuck]
ElectronVTEC2 Offline
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My friend came over tonight and about two and a half hours later I have a rotating assembly again - new and improved to move all the way to the top of the bore! It actually isn't bad at all, cleaning out the grooves on the pistons was far and away the shittiest part, the rest was really pretty simple. Plastigauge looked to be in the ballpark according to my friend and the ring gap was fine. All in all, no surprises, just learned to hate assembly lube when you're under a car and it's falling in your eyes. Thanks again for all the tips, Dan, they proved very helpful!

Next up is reattaching the pan/tcase/subframe and hopefully I'll have my head this week so I can get it tested and maybe, just maybe start reassembling it this weekend. I'll keep everyone posted for sure.

Todd
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#4359504 - 12/21/09 06:49 AM Re: Starting a new post, carnage pics... [Re: ElectronVTEC2]
danl Offline
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Posts: 12519
Loc: Maryland USA
Glad it worked out, see its not that bad is it? Its just slightly harder than replacing a headgasket because you have to drop the oil pan as well. Did you reuse the old rings? I have been wanting to put together a spare motor with a set of stock pistons from a 1990 car. I was just going to spit shine them, lightly hone the cylinders, and put a bottom end together. Last motor I put together I reused the rings, but they were out of a "just rebuilt" motor that needed redone because the crankshaft was siezing up and sending metal through the motor. Great assembly, that crank is now junk.
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